The Capanna 2017 Brunello di Montalcino shows fresh primary fruit initially, but the bouquet is otherwise footed in ethereal tones of balsam herb, cola, crushed flowers and autumnal leaf. The wine delivers purity and a nice level of complexity that flirts with both varietal and territory-specific characteristics. It registers 15% alcohol, but thankfully it's not too intrusive. That power and the wine's structure, with some mild tannic bitterness, plays against the delicate quality of fruit you get here. Best after 2024.
